Accepted Scientific Name: Euphorbia inermis var. huttonae (N.E.Br.) A.C.White, R.A.Dyer & B.Sloane
Succ. Euphorb. 395 1941 A.C.White, R.A.Dyer & B.Sloane
Origin and Habitat: Eastern Cape, Republic of South Africa. Euphorbia inermisSN|25160]]SN|25160]] var. huttonae is only known from a small area near Carlisle Bridge (Albany District) a few kilometers up the Fish River Valley from Committees, where the typical form of Euphorbia inermisSN|25160]]SN|25160]] abounds.
Habitat and Ecology: Euphorbia inermisSN|25160]]SN|25160]] var. huttonae grows in the flats near Carlisle Bridge and is very abundant at this point, often forming large clumps up to 50 cm in diameter. The population trend is stable.
Synonyms:
See all synonyms of Euphorbia inermis
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Accepted name in llifle Database:Euphorbia inermis Mill.Gard. Dict., ed. 8. 13 1768Synonymy: 2
Accepted name in llifle Database:Euphorbia inermis var. huttonae (N.E.Br.) A.C.White, R.A.Dyer & B.SloaneSucc. Euphorb. 395 1941Synonymy: 3
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Description: Euphorbia inermisSN|25160]]SN|25160]] var. huttonae (Euphorbia huttoniaeSN|25160]]SN|25162]]) is a local or morphological form of Euphorbia inermisSN|25162]]SN|25160]], differing only by flower character. Unlike the type species, that has nectar-glands variably bifid on the outer margin (with more or less long processes), the var. huttonae has nectar-glands margins truncate and toothed or more or less entire, without processes. The most marked difference, however, is in the densely hairy lobes between the glands of E. inermis, and the glabrous lobes of var. huttonae. Otherwise as in the type. All things considered the plant appears to be little more than a local form of E. inermis and it cannot claim more than varietal rank.
Flowers (cyathia): Involucre broadly and rather shallowly cup-shaped, about 5 mm in diameter, glabrous, with 5 glands and 5 rather short, transversely oblong, toothed lobes. Nectar glands, greenish or yellowish-green (never white), contiguous or nearly so, deflexed, 2-2.5 mm in diameter, transverse, rounded on the inner margin, truncate and toothed or subentire on the outer margin, but not produced into distinct processes.
Female flower: Ovary glabrous. Styles united to the apex into a column nearly 2 mm long, with spreading, cuneate, subtruncate tips.
Fruits: Glabrous.
Otherwise as in the type. (for more details see: Euphorbia inermisSN|25160]]SN|25160]])
Subspecies, varieties, forms and cultivars of plants belonging to the Euphorbia inermis group
- Euphorbia inermis Mill.: has green with white (ore pure white) nectar glands variably bifid or with much divided processes on the outer margin. Distribution: Eastern Cape, South Africa.
- Euphorbia inermis var. huttonae (N.E.Br.) A.C.White, R.A.Dyer & B.Sloane: has yellow-green nectar glands, truncate and toothed or subentire. Fruit glabrous. Distribution: Albany, near Carlisle Bridge, Eastern Cape, South Africa.
Bibliography: Major references and further lectures
1) Archer, R.H. & Victor, J.E. 2005. Euphorbia huttonae N.E.Br. National Assessment: Red List of South African Plants version 2015.1. Accessed on 2016/02/28
2) Hermann Jacobsen “Abromeitiella to Euphorbia” Blandford Press, 1960
3) Hermann Jacobsen “A Handbook of Succulent Plants: Descriptions, Synonyms, and Cultural Details for Succulents Other Than Cactaceae”, Volume 1 Blandford Press, 1960
4) Bruyns, P.V. “Nomenclature and typification of southern African species of Euphorbia.” Bothalia 42(2):217-245. 2012.
5) Alain Campbell White, Robert Allen Dyer, Boyd L. Sloane “The succelent Euphorbisae (southern Africa)” Abbey garden press, 1941
6) Urs Eggli “Illustrated Handbook of Succulent Plants: Dicotyledons” Springer Science & Business Media, 2002
7) Albany Museum (Grahamstown, South Africa) “Records of the Albany Museum”, Volumes 3-4, Albany Museum, 1931
8) International Euphorbia Society “Euphorbia: Review of the International Euphoriba Society”, V.1, No.1- January 1935
Cultivation and Propagation: Euphorbia inermisSN|25160]]SN|25160]] var. huttonae is an easy species to grow that is suited for any well drained soil in full sun. It is cultivated as an ornamental, and is a particular favourite of succulent plant enthusiasts.
Growing rate: It is a relatively slow growing and long lived plant and once established, it will be content in its position and with its soil for years.
Soil and pots: It likes deep pot with generous drain holes to accommodate its tap root, needs a very airy potting medium very permeable to water which mainly consists of non organic material such us clay, pumice, lava grit, expanded slate and only a little peat or leaf-mould. Re-pot every two years.
Fertilization: Need a perfect fertilizer diet in summer. Use preferably a cacti and succulents fertilizer with high potassium content including all micro nutrients and trace elements or slow release fertilizer.
Exposure: It can tolerate moderate shade, and a plant that has been growing in shade should be slowly hardened off before placing it in full sun as the plant will be severely scorched if moved too suddenly from shade into sun.
Watering: Water regularly during the active growing season. No water should ever be allowed to stand around the roots. Keep almost completely dry in winter. However this spurge will tolerate dryness and can even thrives in poor, dry soils, but do better when grown in nutrient-rich soils with regular watering.
Aerosol salt tolerance: It is salt tolerant.
Hardiness: Some cold tolerance. This spurge has tolerated temperatures down to –6ºC and even a little snow. However it can be difficult to get it to look its best without a good amount of heat and sun (USDA Zones 8-11)
Rot: Rot it is only a minor problem with Euphorbias if the plants are watered and “aired” correctly. If they are not, fungicides won't help all that much.
Known hazards: As with all other Euphorbias when a plant get damaged it exudes a thick white milky sap known as latex. This latex is poisonous, and may irritate skin. Pay extreme attention not to get any in your eyes or mouth. Cultivated plants must be handled carefully.
Propagation: The plant can be reproduced by seeds or cuttings If you take a cutting from this plant, you will get a strange bunch of sideways 'fingers' that will not come true to the shape of the parent. In this case, wait for seed. If you remove an offset, remember to let it dry for some days, letting the wound heal (cuttings planted too soon easily rot before they can grow roots). Lay it on the soil and insert the stem end partially into the substrate. Try to keep the cutting somewhat upright so that the roots are able to grow downward. It is better to wash the cut to remove the latex.