Origin and Habitat: Garden origin (Nursery produced cultivar)

• Echinocereus russanthus f. cristata hort.

• Echinocereus russanthus D.Weniger
• Echinocereus chloranthus var. russanthus (D.Weniger) J.G.Lamb. ex G.D.Rowley
• Echinocereus viridiflorus var. russanthus (D.Weniger) A.D.Zimmerman
• Echinocereus chloranthus var. livermorensis Kolle
• Echinocereus russanthus f. cristata hort.
• Echinocereus russanthus subs. fiehnii (Trocha) W.Blum & Mich.Lange
• Echinocereus russanthus var. fiehnii Trocha
• Echinocereus russanthus subs. weedinii Leuck ex W.Blum & Mich.Lange in W.Blum et al.
• Echinocereus chloranthus subs. weedinii hort.
• Echinocereus russanthus var. weedinii hort.
• Echinocereus viridiflorus var. weedinii (Leuck ex W.Blum & Mich.Lange) A.D.Zimmerman

Description: Echinocereus russanthusSN|21782]]SN|21782]] is usually a nice cactus species with bristle-like spimes, typically reddish to brown (but also white or yellowish) obscuring the stems.
Crested Form: This is one of the nicest crested cacti that on rare occasions develops. Crested plants often results in several flowers appearing at one time along the line meristem. It is best maintained by grafting it on to a columnar stock (e.g. Trichocereus, Harrisia, Myrtillocactus).
Stem: Fan shaped, 8-30 tall and 4 or more cm in thik; ribs prominent with crests, slightly to conspicuously undulate; areoles 3-12 mm apart.
Spines: Interlocking, bristle-like slender, typically reddish to brown (but also white or yellowish) obscuring the stems, radiating in all directions.
Flowers: 2-3,5 × 1,5-3 cm; rust-red, often with darker purplish maroon midstripes, anthers greenish-yellow.
Flowering: March - June.
Fruits: yellowish green to dark green, dark purple, or reddish tinged, 6-17 mm, pulp white; fruiting 2 months after flowering.

Bibliography: Major references and further lectures
1) David Hunt, Nigel Taylor “The New Cactus Lexicon” DH Books, 2006
2) John Pilbeam (1999) “Mammillaria The Cactus File Handbook” Nuffield Press.
3) Edward F. Anderson “The Cactus Family” Timber Press, 2001
4) James Cullen, Sabina G. Knees, H. Suzanne Cubey “The European Garden Flora Flowering Plants: A Manual for the Identification of Plants Cultivated in Europe, Both Out-of-Doors and Under Glass”Cambridge University Press, 11/ago/2011

Cultivation and Propagation: Echinocereus russanthusSN|21782]]SN|21782]] f. cristata is not too difficult in a greenhouse, although grows quite slowly. It is usually seen as a grafted plant but can grow on its own roots too.
Soil: Use a mineral well permeable soil with little organic matter (peat, humus).
Exposure: They need a good amount of light shade to full sun this help to keep the plants healthy, although slow growth.
Watering: Water sparingly from March till October (weekly during summertime, if the weather is sunny enough), with a little fertilizer added. Less or no water during cold winter months, or when night temperatures remain below 10° to prevent root loss. It is sensitive to overwatering (rot prone).
Fertilization: Feeding may not be necessary at all if the compost is fresh then, feed in summer only if the plant hasn't been repotted recently. Do not feed the plants from September onwards as this can cause lush growth which can be fatal during the darker cold months.
Hardiness: Keep perfectly dry in winter at temperatures from 5 to 15 degrees centigrade. (but it is relatively cold resistant and hardy to -5° C, or possibly colder for short periods) In the rest period no high atmospheric humidity!! (Temperature Zone: USDA 9-11)
Crested growth: Unlike 'monstrose' varieties of plants, where the variation from normal growth is due to genetic mutation, crested growth can occur on normal plants. Sometimes it's due to variances in light intensity, or damage, but generally the causes are unknown. A crested plant may have some areas growing normally, and a cresting plant that looks like a brain, may revert to normal growth for no apparent reason. If you have any of the crested part left you need to remove the normal growth and leave the crested part behind this will need to be done regularly.
Propagation: Grafting or cuttings. Plants are usually grafted onto column-shaped cacti but proved to be able to produce their own roots if degrafted. Cuttings will take root in a minimum temperature of 20° C (but better in hot weather). Cuttings of healthy shoots can be taken in the spring and summer. Cut the stem with a sharp, sterile knife, leave the cutting in a warm, dry place for a week or weeks (depending on how thick the cutting is) until a callus forms over the wound. Once the callus forms, the cutting may be inserted in a container filled with firmed cactus potting mix topped with a surface layer of coarse grit. They should be placed in the coarse grit only; this prevents the cut end from becoming too wet and allows the roots to penetrate the rich compost underneath. The cuttings should root in 2 to 6 weeks. Large crested piece must be placed on the soil surface without burying the plant base down in the soil.